Coralie Fargeat’s sophomore feature, The Substance, is an audacious, mesmerizing, and deeply disturbing exploration of beauty and societal pressure that amplifies the raw tension seen in her previous work, Revenge. If Revenge was a hyperbolic and frenetic tour de force, then The Substance takes that fanaticism to even greater extremes. Fargeat once again proves she is unafraid to push boundaries, crafting a film that both shocks and seduces in equal measure.

At the heart of the story is fading film star Elisabeth Sparkle (Demi Moore), who embarks on a desperate and grotesque journey to recapture her youth and beauty. It’s a story that channels Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde and The Picture of Dorian Gray, but Fargeat gives it a visceral, modern twist. Sparkle’s desire to regain her status sees her quite literally shedding her skin, only to reveal the youthful, more vibrant Sue (Margaret Qualley) beneath. This metaphor of transformation is one that Fargeat mines deeply, blending psychological horror with body horror to unnerving effect.

The film’s thematic exploration of the pressures placed on women in society is bold and cutting. In a world where perfection is both demanded and worshipped, The Substance critiques the lengths to which women are pushed in order to meet unattainable standards. Elisabeth Sparkle’s journey feels like a distorted mirror to Demi Moore’s own life, a meta-commentary on the demands of Hollywood and media scrutiny on aging actresses. Moore delivers what is arguably her finest performance to date, embracing the vulnerability, desperation, and eventual monstrosity of her character. Her portrayal is one that feels intensely personal, capturing the very real horror of societal rejection and the obsessive pursuit of eternal beauty.

Fargeat establishes clear rules within the twisted reality of The Substance, only to heighten the stakes with each passing scene. The film’s world is meticulously constructed, and as Elisabeth Sparkle begins her physical transformation, the boundaries between her public persona and inner turmoil dissolve. The journey is as much psychological as it is physical, with every transition becoming more grotesque and extreme.

The body horror effects are stunningly grotesque, matching the film’s over-sensualization with moments of visceral revulsion. Fargeat is unflinching in her depiction of bodily transformation, and while this may not appeal to all audiences, it is undeniably impactful. There’s a near-obsessive focus on the body—its beauty, decay, and renewal—that drives the film’s horrific imagery. These moments, combined with the film’s sensual tone, are deeply unsettling and visually striking.

The Substance also stands as a masterclass in atmosphere. Fargeat laces every frame with a sense of heightened tension and seductive horror, much like in Revenge, but here she pushes the boundaries even further. The use of lighting, sound, and color accentuates the hyperreal world in which Elisabeth Sparkle exists, adding to the film’s surreal tone. There’s an elegance to the horror, a controlled chaos that feels intentional and artfully executed.

The Prognosis:

Though The Substance is not for everyone, its bold vision, daring execution, and Demi Moore’s tour-de-force performance make it a near-perfect film for those willing to immerse themselves in Fargeat’s nightmarish world. It’s a film you don’t dare replicate, as it masterfully melds beauty with horror, elegance with grotesquery. Fargeat’s ability to combine all these elements results in a piece of cinema that lingers, challenging its audience with every frame.

• Saul Muerte

The Substance is screening at cinemas nationwide from Thursday 19th Sept.